How to Make an APH Wheel

What you need:

Parts:

  • Approximately 1 metre of 21.5mm overflow pipe
  • 1 No. 21.5mm overflow tee
  • 2 No. 21.5mm overflow 90 degree bends
  • 1 No M8 x 70mm set screw (bolt)
  • 1 No. M8 nyloc nut
  • 1 No. M8 stainless steel dome nut
  • 1 No. Scooter wheel with bearings
  • Plumbers cement
  • Cable ties
  • Spacer (I use 10mm aluminium tube cut down, skateboard/inline/scooter bearing spacers may be ok)
  • 22mm plastic ferrules (end caps for the pipe)

Tools:

  • 8mm wood drill bit
  • 16mm flat wood drill
  • 2 No. 13mm spanner/ratchets
  • Drill bit that is the same size as your cable ties
  • Hacksaw
  • Angle grinder/means of cutting the bucket
  • Knife
  • Scothcbrite/sandpaper

Cutting the bucket:

Drill the base of the bucket in the centre – I use a 16mm flat wood bit.

You drill the bucket first to ensure that the base of the bucket is level.

Cover hole in base of bucket with tape

Fill bucket with sand to keep the shape of the bucket while cutting – important

Cut the bucket with an angle grinder or other cutting instrument

File the top of the bucket to remove roughness

Use a knife to round the edges

Use an abrasive (scotchbrite or sand paper) to further smooth the bucket

Attaching the scooter wheel:

I use a wooden template that was made to automatically centre. This isn’t really viable for one or two wheels so an alternative method is needed. The easiest way is to use cable ties. I personally dislike cable ties and think it is a pikey way of doing things, but needs must. Besides, it makes changing the bearings easier.

With the wheel placed on the back of the bucket, measure the distance from the edge of the wheel to the outside of the bucket. When the distance is the same all around, using a drill place the drill bit through the “spokes of the scooter wheel and drill a number of pairs of holes between the spokes of the wheels. You are aiming to not drill the wheel, but to drill the bucket. You want the label of the scooter wheel to face inwards for aesthetics.

Then you zip cable ties through the holes with the ties looped through the wheel so that the ends of the ties are at the back of the wheel. Measure that the wheel is central again adjusting where necessary.

Making the stand:

Cut the inner and outer legs and the vertical piece to size.

Drill an 8mm hole in the vertical part of the stand – I use wood drill bits as they are less likely to split the wood than metal drill bits.

Place the M8 by 70mm bolt through the holes with a washer either side of the stand. Add a nyloc nut to secure the bolt.

Assemble the stand by placing the inner legs into the tee, then the 90 degree bends, then the outer legs. It is important that all casting marks on the bends face the floor so that the stand looks as aesthetically pleasing as possible. The same goes for marks in the pipe.

You can use a few options for securing the stand, the easiest and quickest is solvent plumbers cement. I also use some pop rivets to add a mechanical fixing to the stand, you could use screws or just glue. It is important that you use something though.

The stand should be tilted backwards. This is to compensate for the angle of the bucket/tub/bowl the wheel should tilt backwards slightly. If you have ever watched a ‘hog running on a wheel tilted forwards, you’ll understand why.

When you attach the bucket to the stand, you place hole in the middle of the scooter wheel (the bearing) onto the bolt on the stand. The scooter wheel has two bearings and a spacer inside it, sometimes this spacer can become dislodged and will need aligning, you can do this by simply inserting something through the bearing to line it up. You then fit a spacer to allow the wheel to turn and spacing the nut away from the bucket. Then comes the nut. I use a stainless steel dome nut to keep things tidy.

(Article written by Hogwheels)

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